ILLUSTRATED SEWING INSTRUCTIONS: FORM PLEATS FOR THE HEM OF THE HERTTA TUNIC
Hertta is a fun tunic. It has a baggy hem and generous pockets that can hold stuff. The shape of the hem is created with the help of shape pleats, and here is a pictorial guide to one way of sewing them.
NOTE! We emphasize that shape seams can of course be sewn in many ways. Here is one way presented. The Hertta tunic is a suitable pattern for an intermediate seamstress, so basic sewing skills are required to sew it.
The pattern includes a 1 cm seam allowance and a 3 cm hem turn. So there is no need to add these to the formula.
1. On the pattern sheet, the shape fold is marked like this. Select the size to be drawn and draw as shown in the following image. The strange shape of the hem is due to the pleat. When it is sewn correctly, the hemline looks "normal" and the turn can be sewn normally.
2. I chose size L, which I have marked in red in the formula. It is recommended to outline the form pleat towards the turn as in the picture. It is mirrored in the fold, because inside the fold the fold is in a different direction.
3. The circled point in the drawn formula is therefore important.
4. The cut piece will look like this. It is not a good idea to cut open the shape pleat, because after that sewing is more difficult. The neatest result comes from leaving the bottom of the pleat uncut and ironing the finished pleat towards the center front, so the fabric is completely intact at this stage.
5. The same from the wrong side. You can also use chalk to outline the shape of the fold as shown in pictures 2 and 3. The departure of the pleat in the hem is especially important. Also mark the end of the pleat with, for example, a pin and a small marker. Sew the pleat from the hem towards the tip with a straight stitch. You can do this in several different ways. It is possible to sew the pleat as drawn, but it requires precision and is challenging. An easier way is to straighten a little and sew only the beginning of the pleat (picture 3) as drawn, and then take hold of the tip of the pleat and sew towards it as is most natural.
6. Finished fold from the right side. The hem is now positioned correctly and it is possible to sew the hem turn from the dotted line.
7. Fold from wrong side. Here you can see how the beginning of the stitch first goes in a different direction and then a small corner is sewn, from which we aim towards the tip of the pleat. Here you can also see how a rounder shape has been sewn into the pleat, as in the pattern. This can also be sewn straighter if it feels easier - the hem will still take shape and the pattern will not suffer from this. The important thing is the beginning of the pleat, after which the hem folds well.
Hopefully, with these instructions, more Dukes will be born